Lay-up instructions for the baggage door and door opening.

  Mark cutout as shown using masking tape:  2' forward of the aft bulkhead. Approx. 2 1/2" aft of the window. 2" above the fuselage joggle. Use approx. the same radiuses as the other windows for best appearance. The upper line should blend with the window and fuselage line. Use the vinyl tape edge as your cut line. Start the cut by drilling a series of 1/16" holes to create a slot for the cutting blade.Make the cut using a reciprocating or sabre saw with a metal cutting blade. Keep the cut perpendicular to the fuselage surface so the opening edge will be at  a 90 degree angle.

Preparing the opening and edge of door:

    The edge foam is removed from the door panel and the fuselage opening back about 3/8" to 1/2".  That area is then filled with a resin milled fiber-cabosil mixture of a Vaseline consistency.  Before putting the mixture in the opening, wet the area with a very small amount of catalyzed resin. This allows the mixture to better bond and fill the area.  I use this procedure every time I do a similar fillet including Qcell applications.

Prepare the hinge areas by removing the resin and foam from the door and the fuselage to allow a squish. Since the hinge is slightly wider than the fuselage panel (about 1/2"), cut the glass layers on the inside to allow the hinge to fit without putting pressure on the outer skin. Prepare the hinges for the squish by coating them with Vaseline or grease.  When squishing, insert the wood screws (flat head phillips x 3/4" to 1" long) in place so the threads will be formed in the cured material. Do not use a fine threaded screw, as the threads will not hold up under usage. You should install the latch hardware and sleeves before continuing with the next step. Hinge is: (Soss) Part No. 204

Fit and install the pin barrels and latch hardware before continuing.

Latch barrels and pins are located 4" up from the bottom of the door. Linkage arms are made from 2024T3 X .125 thick aluminum. Use steel bushings at pin locations.

Lock Mechanism:

    The latch assembly is purchased from Glasair.  My installation utilized the latch set from the cabin left door. Copelands used the set from the right cabin door by altering the installation. You may use either, but the following pictures illustrate my installation procedure.

Door lock is a "desk drawer" lock from the hardware store. It is necessary to disassemble the lock and lengthen the blade to fit the stop.

Use a cotter pin in place of the lock ring. You will need to drill a hole 1/16" for the pin.

Positioning of the over-center pin and spring.

Use a nut clip w/locking nut.  Install steel bushings in linkage arms and use a shoulder screw to fit.      (I did not in this photo)

    Sand the edges of the door and the door opening.  Prepare the door (inside) with a 4-1/2lb foam build   up (3/8") by about 2-1/2" that will create the mold form for the joggle. Once shaped apply heavy aluminum foil (freezer weight) using a light spray application of 3M black can adhesive on the foil to adhere it to the shaped foam surface. Let the adhesive flash off about 30 seconds before applying the foil. Apply a light coat of wax to the foil surface as a release agent.                                                                                            

   Prepare the inside fuselage surface for bonding.      

Hold the door blank in place using short pieces of  metal (not wood as shown as it splinters when removed) across the door to the fuselage in at least 4 places using body filler as the temporary bonding media. Make certain the surfaces are flush on the outside.

 

 

 

 

 

   The glass layers that I used are as follows:

  1 layer of uniglass 1-1/2" wide across the top of the opening and the area between the window and door opening.

  5 layers of bid around the opening overlapping as needed on the corners.

    After removing the door, prepare the opening with a Qcell fillet and lay in 3 layers of glass covering the previous layers from the joggle and up to the edge of the fuselage.

  When cured, trim the opening     leaving the required joggle (3/4")      (now 8 layers) and trim flush with     the edge of the fuselage.

   

 

 

 

 

 

    I think the rest of the procedure will not be a problem.  Do not worry about the final gap between door and fuselage until well into the final stages of fitting. The best way to get an exact fit is to prepare the opening, put aluminum heavy foil (lightly spray the back with the 3M Black can adhesive) or aluminum tape around the door edge and apply wax on the foil, wax the pins and sleeves, put squish material (resin-milled fiber-cabosil) into the opening and close and lock the door.

    When cured, open the door, remove from the hinges, scribe a line .060" on the perimeter of the door and sand away the marked thickness (about the thickness of a tongue depressor) for your paint gap.  I used this same procedure to fit most of my parts including the cowl halves to the fuselage and to each other.  Works terrific! Good Luck!!!!!

Call or email (jerico@sierratel.com) if (when) you have questions.
 
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